FPVCycle 8mm Glide Frame Kit

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  • Regular price $49.99

This frame has 8mm thick arms that are set inside the body and brace the entire fuselage. It is incredibly rigid yet still only weighs ~115g built.

There are tens of thousands of Glides out there. Its formula is extremely tried and true at this point. It has been extremely difficult to improve on the Glide in any meaningful way but this is finally a genuine step forward. While the 8mm Glide shares the same name, the electronic layout is really the only aspect that it shares with the regular Glide. The rest of its design elements come from our other designs through the years.

This frame was inspired by Ahren Ciotti (CiottiFPV) because he has a knack for destroying absolutely everything. The idea was to use the much thicker and stronger arms to secure the entire fuselage structure by moving the arms inside the body and extending a leg to hold the next set of standoffs. Chirs Rosser’s λ (lambda) arm design was a shoe in here because it was the obvious way to extend that leg to the next standoff. Chris wasn’t the first to use the λ arm design but he did demonstrate its torsional superiority. That being said, it’s not as simple as just making that shape, full computational analysis is required to achieve the sought after performance because it must be designed as a unified structure. We don’t guarantee that you won’t have vibrations, but the first computational node on this structure is so high that it would seem impossible for the frame to resonate and exasperate any vibrations.

The weight distribution of how the GoPro and battery sits are completely optimized for the wide X layout. We went with wide X because it’s the only reasonable way to get props out of the view of the GoPro without ruining the weight distribution. This is a significant factor.

Spare parts will be available soon however it’s unlikely you’ll need any spare arms. Computer analysis says the top plate will be the first part to crack which is great because that part is cheap and easy to replace.

Good quality drivers or otherwise drivers that will not strip or deform such as those made by MIP are always STRONGLY encouraged. The frame is not chamfered because it adds so much to the cost. Hit it with a little sand paper and make it yours if you like.


This frame has been designed to take a Hero 11 Mini on the front between the blades. At ~20deg tilt and 8:7 wide, you will get a bit of prop view in the lower corners but any amount of stabilization with any software will completely remove any visible prop. Or you can crop it to 16:9 and props will be gone. If you’re running a full Hero cam, the mount will be raised up a bit. If you’re running something narrower than a H11Mini, perfect. Brain3D already has all the mounts ready for this.


We have some frames with O3 cams in them that have no issues with vibrations but we also understand that many still want some degree of soft mounting of the camera. Those will come in the next batch and will be available separately.

TPU stuff:

Brain 3D already has all of it ready. Will be listed shortly. Rear standoff spacing is 31.4mm center to center. Most TPU things you have that mount 5mm standoffs and are close to that width will already mount on here.

Electronic mounts:

  • Max size for front 20x20 electronic platform: 33mm wide, 29mm long.
  • Max size for middle ESC mount area: infinite width, 43mm long. Note that many ESC’s have a ‘tongue’ that extends for the battery leads. This tongue can only be 29mm wide and ~8-10mm long
  • Max size for rear 20x20 platform: 33mm wide, 34mm long. Fit’s O3 and Walksnail.


  • 8mm Thick arms
  • Fits 5.21” props
  • Motor mount pattern: 16x16 M3 (12x12 M2 frame option in drop down)
  • Frame weight fully built without optional XT60 mount: ~115g
  • Wide X layout because of the improved weight distribution with a GoPro.
  • One central 30x30/20x20/whoop mounting platform flanked by two 20x20 platforms all accessible at all times with no interference.
  • No stack screws touch any arm parts. No arm/stack integration.
  • 22mm build height
  • Motor bumpers on arms really do save motors from damage.
  • 12.9 hardness steel screws and steel press-nuts.
  • 20mm wide FPV Cam mount spacing with camera cage.
  • Recommended build:
  • FPVCycle 22.6mm motors either in 16x16 M3 or 12x12 M2
  • Gemfan F4S props (the best balanced 5” prop from Gemfan)
  • 6S 1100-1380mah 150C or higher
  • Any 20x20 FC
  • Any 6S 30A or greater 4in1
  • WaFl premade cap

Further Recommendations About Teeth:

Glide floss is not really the best floss for your teeth, it just fit the naming scheme well. It's made of a very slippery material that may slide easily between teeth but also slide easily over plaque. Those with braces will have an easier time with Glide and that’s fine but everyone else should be using Reach Dentotape. It's double wide and braided so it will gently scrub the sides of your teeth and gums clean which is far superior to Glide floss.

Please floss at least once a day and stay away from products containing high fructose corn syrup or really any processed carbohydrates.

Customer Reviews

Based on 3 reviews

I didn't have good luck with this frame so far. . I paired it with a brand new set of Wasp Majors and experienced a lot of vibrations and odd motor noises. I switched the motors to a different frame to try and rule them out as the culprit and the motors performed great on a different frame. I will go back and rebuild the frame some day to make sure the build was correct. Until then, this is my experience.

Anonymous (Kitano, JP)
Supreme λ arm

The 8mm arm is especially cool, and I think adding shrink tubing to the motor guard is smarter than making it out of TPU.
I can say that there were no frame-related limitations in PID tuning.
I broke the fixing hole on the camera body when I hit the camera plate, so I fixed it with double-sided tape of an appropriate thickness.

acro_lou (Petaluma, US)
Very cool design!

EDIT: After finishing up the build and flying it, this is a fantastic frame. Disregard my comments about the O3 camera mount and just use one screw per side and you’ll get all the angle you want. It would be neat if an updated mount became available that utilized two screws per side like the old Vista/AU cams, but not critical.

Love the design of this thing. Very different from basically anything out there. Went together pretty easily, too. Not sure what all the m2 pressnuts are for? They don’t seem to fit anywhere. Also, no M3 holes for the center 30x30 stack??? Drilled them out and all is well, but still.
Camera mounts for the O3 cam aren’t perfect either. Looks like it’s locked off at 35°, which works, but not completely ideal.

Looking forward to flying this thing!