Baby Tooth, 1S 3"

Baby Tooth, 1S 3"

The Baby Tooth setups deliver an eye opening ‘big quad’ experience in a small and nearly silent package.  The goal of this build is small, safe, simple and friendly with seriously fun performance from what seems like benign components.  By now the general formula of the big prop, low weight 1S build has been well recognized but some of the part offerings in the industry have been lacking in reliability, performance and ease of use.



We’ve been absolutely fascinated with the 1S high performance setups for quite some time now.  The following may seem simple and obvious but it reflects years of research, testing, refinement and custom designed components for the task.  It’s unfortunate that this is also a cookbook for other brands to rip off our work but we’re more concerned about sharing the joy of all this with the world.  The only way we exist is with your support.  Without you, there is no us and we are immensely grateful for that support.

Baby Tooth 1S Standard:
Baby Tooth frame in 2mm thickness
1202.5 11,500kv motors
Gemfan 3018 props
FPVCycle 1S AIO - plain version without Vtx or Rx
AIO camera/vtx
Bee Brain V2 camera mount
PandaRC Nano Vtx
600mah 1S battery
These large rubber bands

This build is the standard load out.  Thanks to it’s low weight, it will provide the best overall performance, lowest noise levels and highest durability.  It’s video range is limited to 25mw and control range is also limited by it’s short antenna but without much stuff in the way, you should be able to get at least a couple hundred feet with what it’s got.

A variant on this build is to use the 1.5mm Baby Tooth frame but a warning if you do.  Under this very low weight build, the 2mm frame will almost never break an arm but the 1.5mm will be more fragile.  Going with 1.5mm will save you more than a gram of weight on your build which is about a 2% weight difference.  For those that are experienced, this will improve performance enough for you to notice however even we use the 2mm frame ourselves because ain’t nobody got time for that.  We like reliable things with less fuss.

 

Baby Tooth 1S Deluxe:
Baby Tooth frame in 2mm thickness
1202.5 11,500kv motors
Gemfan 3018 props
FPVCycle 1S AIO - with TBS Crossfire and Pro32 Nano Vtx
Ant Lite 4:3 FPVCycle edition
Bee Brain V2 camera mount
PandaRC Nano Vtx
600mah 1S battery
These large rubber bands
Optional MiniMortal T V2 upgrade from included MiniMortal T V1

Crossfire on board with the MiniMortal T antenna and the Pro32 Nano Vtx 400mw will provide at least double the range of the standard build.  The downside to this build is that it will weigh about 1-2g more than the standard build.  While 2g may not seem like much, for something that weighs ~53g with battery, that’s almost four percent and it will impact performance.  Fortunately the large 3” props will carry the load fine but the standard build will perform a little better.  Because of the increase in weight, this quad will be just a little louder.

Baby Tooth 3S Super:
Baby Tooth frame in 3mm thickness
1303 5000kv motors
Gemfan 3018 props or Gemfan 3016 props
JHEMCU AIO board or Diatone Mamba AIO board
Ant Lite 4:3 FPVCycle edition
Bee Brain V2 camera mount
PandaRC Nano Vtx
450mah 3S battery
These large rubber bands
Add your choice of receiver and Vtx

This is the Toothpick 3 drivetrain built on the 3mm thick Baby Tooth frame which will make it VERY powerful and FAST.  The 3mm frame is NOT recommended for 1S builds.  The reason the 3mm variation of this frame exists is for those that prefer a unibody design over the Toothpick 3 design.  This design is called the ‘Baby Tooth’ not because it’s smaller than the TP3, but because it supports 1S better and is simpler than the TP3.  The 3S build on the Baby Tooth frame is beyond the scope of this article.  It’s just added here for those that were wondering.

About the build:

We’ve found that your ideal target all up weight (including battery) is below 60g.  This is a very easy target to hit and the reason that is the limit is because beyond about 60g, the nature of how the 3018 prop works in the air starts to change.  You no longer have the same smooth control feel or ability to pull out of dives with ease.  In general, any of the 1S builds above will be under 58g.  Dropping your all up weight below 50g begins to give you very significant performance benefits but as a very general rule of thumb, 55-60g is okay and will perform well.

 

 


The tune:

We recommend not changing the firmware on the FPVCycle 1S AIO board from the BF 4.1 it comes with.  We also do not recommend attempting to change the ESC firmware.  You can update things as you wish but it's not recommended and we're not responsible for burnt ESC's due to user errors with updates.

The following PID tune is a general starting point.  It flies really well with these numbers but if you’re a tuning wiz you can improve it further.  You may notice that throttle boost is turned off.  That setting is also a personal choice.  It tends to feel a little artificial to us so we turn it off.

Here is an alternative tune that fit the Deluxe model I've got a little better.  It's typical for 1S quads to have a much higher P and D than you're probably used to.  The tuning window here is quite large so you have a fair bit of wiggle room.



The rates are a personal setting however with the battery swung under, it tends to exaggerate the expo so a little less expo than you’re typically used to and a little higher RC rate may feel better.


Filters are all at default



Lastly, pay attention to the voltage alarms.  You must reduce the warning and minimum voltage alarm or it will constantly be alarming you.  1S batteries can usually operate fine down to about 3.0v in flight under load.  Below that it starts to get pretty sketchy with respect to battery cycle endurance.  Normally you do not want your lipo going below 3.3v in flight under load however in this case, it’s hard to pull enough amps out of such a small battery to cause significant battery degradation from cycle to cycle when running below 3.3v.  This goes for all 1S quads.  You can set your numbers to whatever you like, these are just what we use.




If you are interested in advanced tuning techniques, check out this video:




This minor frame update to hold the MiniMortal T antenna nicely is coming soon:


 

Other general build options:

3016x3 props and 1S

With these, you will have an even quieter quad but it will also be a little slower and have less flight time.  The control, grip and punch performance will improve very very slightly.

XT30 vs other connectors

The typical 1S battery connector is the PH2.  This connector is absolutely awful for conductivity.  Switching to a better connector will almost double your flight time AND performance at the same time on any given whoop.  For this 3” 1S class of quad, the BT2 connector also suffers a bit with conductivity.  The best options are the GNB27 connector (that isn’t available yet) or the XT30.  If you have an extra low weight build like Mr. Shutterbug, you can get away with the BT2.

Battery

You can really use anything from a 350mah to 700mah or even bigger 1S cell.  The best cell for high performance will be the 450mah 1S 80C.  The best cell we've found for a balance of flight time and performance is the 600mah 1S 50C cell.  We currently stock the 600mah 50C 1S packs but will also stock the 450mah 1S packs when GNB gets more stock of them in October.  For now, you can pickup the 450mah 3S packs and split up the cells into 1S packs if you like.  Please don't do it if you're not comfortable soldering LiPo cells but it's not very challenging.  You just need to be careful not to let anything conductive bridge the tabs on the individual cells.  DO NOT pull the cells apart quickly, let them separate slowly and DO NOT cut ANY power tabs off the cells or you will not be able to solder to them anymore.  Be gentle and pay attention to the +/- polarity.  If you are not comfortable managing sparks and a possible small fire, DO NOT ATTEMPT this.



HV vs Non-HV Batteries

We don't like HV cells.  They do not perform any better, do not last as many charge cycles and cost more.  Their advertised ratings are inaccurate at best and blatant misleading lies at worst.  Even GNB isn't perfect in this area all the time.  The GNB 520mah HV cell is actually 450mah when you use and charge it to 4.35v.  The cell performs almost as good as the 450mah 80C cell but will not hold up to the same number of charge cycles.  If you'd like more details about our testing, the description on THIS page presents it.

Camera

There are three primary options here.  The lightest option is the AIO camera/vtx but this is just a whoop cam.  It's just 25mw and has a super wide angle lens.  The second option is to use the 199C FPV Camera with a separate Vtx so you can get 200mw or higher but the 199C is still just a whoop cam.  The overall best FPV picture per unit of weight is the Ant Lite 4:3 FPVCycle edition which is what I'm flying in the video above.  It weighs 1.7g but you still need an external Vtx.  The AIO cam/vtx is the lowest weight and will provide the best performance but the worst FPV view.  Soooo do you want better performance or a better view?  Your choice.

Press fit props Vs Prop screws

There’s ongoing debates about press fit vs screwed on props however test results don’t lie.  Eliminating the screw drops about 3g of weight where it counts most while increasing thrust and motor response.  This was recognized with the original Toothpick years ago and ever since, we recommended press fit props.  Back then the prop shafts were only 1.5mm thick and would sometimes break in a hard hit.  More recently we’ve moved to the 2mm press fit and haven’t had any shafts broken.  Overall, press fit is very reliable however before we tuned the fit, sometimes a wet shaft would throw a blade.  That doesn’t happen anymore with the 3016 or 3018 unless you somehow get super slick oil on the shaft.  Our motors have both the 2mm press fit and the prop screws so if you’d like, you can always add the screws.  Oh yeah, the 2mm press fit is extremely convenient as well.

AIO board options

The 1S AIO board we have created has been developed specifically for this sort of low load, 1S open prop build.  It has large, easy to access solder pads by comparison to any other product on the market.  It does not have any connectors for motors or other equipment because connectors take up space, have weight and are generally electrically inefficient.  We have tried every single 1S board option in existence as of August 2020 and there has not been a single one that has been easily usable or reliable.  This is probably because they have not been made with this intended build.  We have worked extremely hard to produce a reliable and high performance board but it's currently in it's first batch so we'll have to wait and see if our efforts will be fruitful...

1103 motor option

The original Toothpick formula included 1103 7500kv motors and 2S with the extra low load KK 65mm props.  As the Toothpick platform development progressed, we ditched the 2.5” props size because 3” is not much bigger, has considerably more disk area and is much better at carrying the components we wanted to carry.  While 1103 can work on 3” props, the 1202.5 motor is much better feeling in the air with respect to control and throttle performance.  There isn’t currently an 1103 we recommend for the 3” build however you can run the 65mm props from Gemfan or HQ if you like.  It will just be a bit more pokey to fly by comparison.

The Mr. Shutterbug build

If you’re at all interested in these sorts of builds and don’t know Mr. Shutterbug, you’re about to be impressed.  Mr. Shutterbug is a master of this field and his builds are nothing short of a work of art.  He takes every possible consideration to drop weight off the build.  Extra light mounting screws for the FC, titanium screws for the motors, 1.5mm frame, the smallest possible camera and a host of other weight saving measures.  The end result is something that is sometimes a full ten grams lighter!  That’s more than 20% weight hacked off!  His quads perform significantly better however they are not designed to take damage and are very carefully put together.  If you really want to get into this stuff hardcore, his methods of improving performance are far more meaningful than bigger motors or more powerful props.  Let him tell you more about it here:




5 comments

  • Izack from NOTCHBAD

    Hi Bob, do you have any tips on how to remove jello from this build?

  • Ethan Esplin

    So I just built this qwad and when i arm the motors 2 motors spin normal and 2 jitter and wont spin up they all beep when plugged in. Any idea why this might be?

  • PKSteffen

    Quad66’s tune with RPM filtering is super sweet. Highly recommend it.

  • Shawn Poole AKA SPFPV

    any rates & PIDs for the 3& 2 cell toothpicks out there? I just finished my 1 cell baby tooth and wow is it great. Now my 3 inch 2 cell is flying like it needs some changes. I suck at the PIDs … could use some help.

  • Daniel Lloyd

    would very much like to try this out in England as we have strict rules on size and weight.. and ever changing wether to so be interesting to see how it fly .
    And I was looking to get one but can not find .
    D’MaxRC

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